The Allure of Luring

Luring is sometimes frowned upon by clicker “purists,” but it can be one useful way to help a novice dog figure out what you want or to get to the end goal faster with any dog. A lure is a small reinforcer, such as a toy or treat, that is used as a “magnet” to position the dog. Many trainers use lures to teach position behaviors, such as sit, lie down, or heel. While I rarely use luring with my own dogs, I certainly think it’s a useful tool to keep in your training toolbox.

Photo by niXerKG on flickr

Luring is quite straightforward for both dog and handler. The dog knows right from the start what’s at stake if he can figure out what you want (whatever’s in your hand at the moment), and you can easily show your dog what to do (by using the magnetic properties of the lure). When your dog gets it right, you simply click and give your dog his reward. Easy!

As straightforward as luring can be, it can also cause some problems down the road. In the beginning stages, some dogs become too focused on the toy or treat to think about what they’re doing. Especially for food- or toy-obsessed dogs, you may find that your dog is blindly following the lure without a clue as to what behavior earned him a reward.

Another potential problem with luring is that some dogs become dependent on the lure. They become “show me the money” dogs, not performing until they know what’s at stake. This is easier to prevent than it is to fix, but it’s certainly not a deal-breaker if it happens.

Preventing lure-dependency is as simple as not letting the lure become a pattern. Use your food or toy to help the dog get into position 3-5 times, then get the reward out of your hand. Make the same hand motion you were doing with your lure, and when your dog does the target behavior, click and produce his reward from a hidden place such as a bait bag, pocket, or from behind your back. You’ve now switched from bribing the dog (showing him what he could have ahead of time) to rewarding him (surprising him with something special after he does what you want).

If your dog has already learned to wait for a lure, this is a bit trickier to work through, but still not the end of the world. In this situation, we need to reverse expectations. Many dogs learn (rightfully so!) that if you’re not holding something in your hand you’re not planning to give him anything when he complies. Your goal at this point is to change your dog’s expectation by teaching him that he’s more likely to get a reward if you don’t have anything in your hand than if you do.

Start by putting a very valuable reward in your hand and showing it to your dog. This could be a favorite toy, a hunk of roast beef, or anything else that will really get your dog excited. Ask your dog to do the behavior you’re working on. When he does, praise and pet him enthusiastically, but do not give him the reward.

Now, take that tempting reward that’s in your hand and put it away nearby where your dog can’t get it but you can still get to it quickly. Perhaps you might set it on the counter, tuck it in a bait bag, or store it on top of a nearby bookshelf. Make sure your dog sees you put it away and knows that your hand is empty. Ask for the same behavior again, and wait. Don’t repeat your cue, and don’t be surprised if it takes the dog a few moments to comply. Wait him out. At this point he’s likely to very slowly do what you asked. The second he starts to comply (before he’s even completed the behavior!), click and give him the reward (pulling it out of your bait bag, sweeping it off the bookshelf, etc). Repeat this exercise several times a day until your dog starts to get the idea that an empty hand is likely to predict great things for him. And hey, remember to be fair, okay? If you ran into this problem in the first place you were probably being a bit stingy about rewarding your dog for listening, so spend a little more time proofing that behavior before asking your dog to do it for “free” again.

Luring can certainly be a useful way to teach your dog, as long as you do so thoughtfully. Just remember to switch from luring (showing the reward to the dog ahead of time) to rewarding (producing the reward after the dog has done what you asked) quickly so you don’t become overly dependent on it.

What behaviors has your dog learned through luring? Have you ever run into any problems with this training technique? Please share your thoughts and stories in the comments below!

Loose Leash Walking

One of the most common goals our students come to class with is teaching their dog to walk nicely on leash. A dog who pulls their owner all over the place, tripping them and choking himself, is no fun to walk. Dogs who lunge and bark at people, bikes, cars, or other animals on leash make walks frustrating for all involved. These dogs may not get as much exercise as they need, because their owner finds walking them so aversive.

Photo by SC Studios

Many people expect their dogs to naturally understand that he’s supposed to walk by their side, but this is not a natural behavior for dogs. If you watch groups of dogs interact, they never walk side by side the same way that groups of people do. Instead, they form loose groups, zigzagging back and forth between points of interest. No one dog leads, and dogs come and go from the group as they wish.

I honestly think that many dogs believe that heel means “walk at the pace of death while ignoring everything interesting.” However, it is possible to teach your dog to walk nicely with you with just a little effort on your part.

First of all, remember that dogs do what works. If your dog pulls and you move forward, he learns that pulling works to get him where he wants to go. This is the biggest obstacle to teaching dogs to walk nicely. If you are inconsistant, sometimes following your dog when he pulls and sometimes insisting on polite walking, your dog will always default to pulling you because he will learn that it occasionally works. If you want to have a dog who walks nicely, make sure that pulling on the leash never works for your dog.

There are several ways to teach your dog that pulling doesn’t work. With young puppies, I simply stop moving forward as soon as the leash gets taut. If the leash is making a “J” shape, I move forward. If the leash straightens out, I stop moving until the leash loosens up again. Puppies are smart, and quickly learn that pulling is ineffective.

For older or stronger dogs, I oftentimes use a Gentle Leader headcollar or Freedom harness to prevent them from dragging me forward. For especially enthusiastic dogs, I start to back up as soon as the leash gets tight, so that pulling actually results in the dog getting further away from whatever he was interested in. As soon as the leash becomes loose, I start moving forward again. This method of walking forward and backing up quickly teaches enthusiastic dogs to control themselves in order to go where they wish to go.

Regardless of which of these methods you use to deal with pulling, it’s very important that you reward your dog when he gets it right. There are several ways to do this. First of all, I walk briskly when the leash is loose, since most dogs find a typical human walking pace incredibly boring. I also use a clicker or some other marker signal to tell the dog when he’s doing well, followed by a reward.

There are plenty of different rewards you can use to reinforce your dog for walking politely. I use a combination of tasty treats (chicken, roast beef, and string cheese are my typical go-to treats), tug toys, and environmental rewards for most dogs I work with. In the beginning stages, I reward for nearly every step to teach my dog what I like, then begin spacing the rewards out as the dog gets the idea. Reward right next to your side, with your hand touching your pant seam. Remember that where you reward your dog will influence where your dog hangs out. I usually teach dogs to walk on my left side, so I hold the clicker and the handle of the leash in my right hand, and leave my left hand free for treats or toys.

Environmental rewards can be very powerful, and I make ample use of them throughout my dog’s life. I walk my dogs because I want to provide them with enjoyable stimulation, and I think it’s very unfair to ask them to ignore everything interesting that they see or smell on our walks. If they see a squirrel, I teach them that we will chase that squirrel together as long as they look at me first to “ask permission.” Similarly, if they want to explore an especially enticing smell, they can earn that opportunity through polite behavior. I simply use forward motion towards whatever they find interesting as a reward for keeping the leash loose, and back away from the interesting thing if they forget to walk nicely and start yanking on the leash.

The biggest mistake I see new handlers making with untrained dogs is trying to take them for long walks right from the start. This is an exercise in frustration (no pun intended) for both parties! Instead, I start new foster dogs off in front of my house. We will walk for the same length of time that we would if I was going on our usual walking route, but we simply circle around in front of my house (or in the city, stick to the sidewalk on your block). The dog still gets the same amount of exercise, but by limiting the amount of stimulation I’m exposing him to, he’s able to be successful and to earn lots of rewards for getting it right.

Once the dog can walk politely in front of my house, I’ll start walking him back and forth on my block, gradually expanding to a 2-3 block radius, then eventually going on longer walks in the park. I never increase the distance I walk him until he’s shown me that he can be successful where we’re at. Think of the walk as a process, not a destination. Remember that he’s still getting the same amount of exercise, and in fact most dogs that I work with are more tired by these training sessions than by their previous long walks, since mental exercise is much more fulfilling than physical exercise alone.

Walking politely by your side is an advanced skill, requiring focus and self control from your dog, so be patient as your dog learns. Every dog can learn to walk nicely!

Do you require your dog to walk on a loose leash? What tips and tricks have you found the most helpful in teaching this skill? Please post your stories and suggestions in the comments below!

Lessons from Shedd: Why You Don’t Really Want a Smart Dog

“What a smart dog!”

As I worked with Mischief, an adolescent mixed breed, the onlookers watched in awe. Mischief was engaged and happy. Her stubby tail wagged and she responded quickly and precisely to every cue she was given. She watched me intently, ignoring the small crowd of Beginning Obedience students gathered around us. Several people remarked positively on her apparent intelligence.

I’ll let you in on a secret: Mischief isn’t that bright. She just enjoys training, and understands the clicker game.

This is ideal, because she’s a wonderful pet. She’s also a great performance dog: at 10 months of age, she’s earned her first rally obedience excellent title with all first-place wins.

Mischief (Photo by Sara Brueske)

This common misperception about intelligence happens with any well-trained animal. People are amazed at how “smart” the beluga whales, dolphins, sea lions, and otters are at the Shedd Aquarium. However, IQ has little to do with it.

We can train sharks, goldfish, rodents, lizards, and hermit crabs. The laws of learning apply to all species, and Ken Ramirez is fond of saying that you can train an earthworm and a graduate student the same way.

Many dog owners are quick to tell me how smart their dogs are. I always respond with my condolences. Here’s the thing: smart dogs are much harder to live with.

Smart dogs get bored quickly. They’re creative, and quick to figure out their own entertainment. They’re more likely to test the limits, push at boundaries, and question rules. They require more from their owners: more training, more attention, more play and exercise, and above all, more skill. My smart dog, Layla, figured out how to open up the fridge door and back gate on her own – something Mischief would never dream of trying to puzzle out. Which dog would you prefer to live with?

Intelligence has nothing at all to do with trainability. Sure, a smart dog may learn a skill more quickly. However, that same dog is also more likely to test your criteria for that skill. Once she knows what you want, she’s going to start trying variations on that behavior to see just how hard she really has to work.

A less intelligent dog may take longer to learn the skill initially, but once she knows what you want, she’s going to be happy continuing to comply without continually offering improvements or modifications on the behavior.

So, how do you find an easy dog if intelligence doesn’t have anything to do with it? Most people actually want a biddable animal, one who is bred to work and cooperate with people. Breeds who are bred for cooperativeness, such as sporting, toy, and herding breeds, tend to be easier to train than those breeds who have been bred to work independently, such as terriers and hounds. This trait, called biddability, is what you’re probably looking for if you think you want a “smart” dog.

Is your dog smart? Biddable? Please share your stories and comments in the section below!

Lessons from Shedd: Whistle While You Work

At Paws Abilities, we use clickers in our training program. Whether working with a new puppy, an experienced competitive obedience dog, or a dog-aggressive and anxious pooch, we find that the clicker serves to clarify and speed up our training program. The trainers at Shedd and other zoos and aquariums worldwide agree.

A trainer at Shedd holds his whistle in his mouth, ready to mark this Beluga whale for performing the “elevator” behavior on cue. Photo by John Kroll.

Clickers and other marker signals are referred to as bridges in the animal training community. This is because the click sound “bridges” the time between when the animal performs a correct behavior and when the trainer is able to deliver the reward.

Any signal can be used as a bridge. We use clickers in dog training because they are cheap, easy to use, and distinct. Many marine mammal and pinniped trainers use whistles, as the sound carries through the water and leaves their hands free to handle training tools or deliver fish. Advanced animals can be transitioned to a verbal bridge such as “yes” or “good” for known behaviors. Verbal markers aren’t recommended for novice trainers or animals as they are less distinct and precise than a mechanical signal, but can be helpful for more advanced teams in certain situations.

Bridges do not have to be auditory. I use a “thumbs up” signal for my dogs, and we oftentimes use this same signal for deaf dogs in our program. A flash of light or the vibration of a collar could also serve the same purpose. Many of the animals at Shedd were conditioned to a tactile bridge, where the trainer would pat the sea lion or dolphin on their side in a specific way to mark the behavior they liked.

Whatever bridging stimulus you decide to use, Ken emphasized that it’s important for it to be distinct and easy to replicate. It should serve no other purpose in the animal’s environment.

So, why use a marker signal at all? What makes the clicker or whistle so powerful?

Marker signals allow trainers to be accurate and precise. By clicking or whistling at the exact moment your animal performs the correct behavior, you can help him to learn more quickly exactly what it is you like. It’s often difficult or even impossible to deliver a food reward or secondary reinforcer to the animal at the precise instant he does what you want, but by using a marker we can still communicate to him exactly what earned that reward.

Furthermore, the bridge can be transferred from trainer to trainer easily, allowing a wider variety of trainers to work with one animal. When an animal understands to listen, watch, or feel for the bridging stimulus, he concentrates more fully on the task at hand instead of focusing on the food or other reward.

Novice trainers often worry that they will need to carry a clicker with them for the rest of their dog’s life. Nonsense! The clicker allows us to teach your dog more quickly and easily. It’s simply another teaching tool. Once your dog understands the behavior, it’s easy to fade the clicker.

What bridging signals do you use to train your dog? Do you use different signals in different environments? Please share your experiences in the comments section below!

Lessons From Shedd: “When can I get rid of the treats?”

“When can I get rid of the treats?”  This is one of the most common questions we receive in our Beginning and Puppy training classes. If ever anyone was focused on the wrong question in training, this may be it. Let’s explore this common training issue.

The sea lions at Shedd are rewarded for a job well done with fish or squid. Photo by Sage Ross.

People can’t wait to stop using food in training. Some people feel that their dog should listen to them because of their natural authority or “alpha-ness.” Some want their dog to just do it because he loves them. Some feel that using food somehow cheapens their relationship. I disagree.

Food enhances relationships. How many family counselors suggest eating at least one meal together a day? Why do couples go out to eat at nice restaurants on dates? Why do we bake cake or other goodies for those we love on special occasions? Eating together enhances your bond. Taking the time to provide another with food shows that you care about them.

Here’s the deal: your dog has to eat. In fact, he has to eat every day. Most dogs eat multiple times a day. Regardless of your view on using food in training, you still have to feed your dog. His food can be used to train him. Why waste this opportunity?

One of the ways in which exotic animal trainers are able to achieve such complex and reliable behaviors is through their use of the animal’s daily food ration in training. Let me be clear here: the animals eat regardless of what happens in the training session. If an animal doesn’t want to train, he or she is still fed. Withholding food is cruel and unnecessary. If your animal isn’t interested in training, this is probably due to operator error. Are you putting too much pressure on him? Being too stingy? Too unclear? Asking for too much? Training in too distracting of an environment? Regardless, your dog is giving you great information. Take a good, hard look at your training program, and start over.

Understand, I’m not saying that food has to be the only training tool you use. This would be stupid and short-sighted. Use a variety of secondary and tertiary reinforcers. A smart trainer keeps things interesting for the animal. Neither am I saying that you should reward your dog for every single behavior. Once an animal understands a behavior, you can switch to rewarding him intermittently.

Also understand, I am not recommending using food as a bribe. If your dog will only listen when you have a cookie in your hand, you’re probably using that food incorrectly as a bribe rather than a reward. Rewards come after a job well done.

All this said, it makes me incredibly sad when someone can think of nothing other than how soon he or she can stop rewarding their dog with food. Why would you want to? You’re going to give that food to your dog anyway at some point. Make it count. Enhance that bond. Reward your dog for a job well done. Share food with your best friend. Eat together, grow together, build that relationship.

Lessons From Shedd: Environmental Manipulation

Setting your animal up for success is one of the key qualities of a successful trainer. This concept can take many forms, but one of the most important is your ability to manage your animal’s environment. Environmental management minimizes distractions, prevents your animal from making mistakes, and allows you to focus on shaping and rewarding those behaviors that you like.

This black and white Tegu is provided with a comfortable square of astroturf, which serves to keep him in one spot during his training session in front of our class.

One frequent argument that opponents of positive reinforcement training make is that reward-based training is ineffective in an emergency or uncontrolled situation. “Clicker training may be great,” they say, “but what good is it going to do when my dog is chasing a squirrel towards the highway?” “How is it going to stop my dog from barking at the fence in the middle of the night?” “Are you telling me that I can’t tell my dog ‘no’ when he’s biting the delivery man in the face?”

All of these arguments ignore one of the most important facets of reinforcement-based training, which is setting the animal up for success. My response to questions such as these is always the same, “Why would you allow your dog to be in that situation in the first place?” If your dog does not have a good recall, why is he off leash in an unfenced area? If he tends to bark at noises, why is he outside unsupervised in the middle of the night? If you haven’t socialized him to delivery people, why would you allow him to interact with one? A smart trainer knows what their dog can handle, and doesn’t put the dog in situations that will overface him.

In order to manage your dog’s environment, you must be honest with yourself about your dog’s strengths and weaknesses. Using gates, crates, tethers, leashes, visual barriers, and the like will allow you to set your dog up to be successful. Smart trainers set the environment up for optimal learning.

When my shy adolescent dog, Dobby, began growling and barking at people as they walked past the house, I covered the front window so that he could no longer look out. Preventing him from practicing this behavior was a form of environmental management. I was then able to teach him to accept people walking past by sitting on my front steps with him on leash and rewarding him for calm behavior when people walked by.

Trainers at Shedd aquarium reduce the risk of aggressive behavior from the sea lions by always leaving a clear path to the water for the animals. If an animal becomes frightened, he can go back to the pool where he’s comfortable, and is therefore more likely to choose flight than to aggress at the trainer. The beluga whales are taught new behaviors in quiet areas away from the public before those behaviors are proofed in the noisier and more chaotic locations. Animals of many species are taught to go to specific targets so that they can easily be separated out from the group and so that large groups of animals can be worked together.

How do you manage your dog’s environment to set him up for success? Please share your thoughts in the comments below!

It’s Not Broken

Our society has an unhealthy preoccupation with breaking things. We housebreak puppies, break horses, break in new shoes, and sometimes accidentally break the spirits of those who depend on us. This attitude is so deep-seated that many of us don’t even realize when we’re focusing on the negative. However, are the risks really worth the rewards? At what cost do we focus on the bad stuff in our lives?

Photo by William Stern

Our dog profile for training class asks some basic questions that help students define their goals and instructors better help the students. This profile also enables us to offer more one-on-one help to students whose dogs may not be appropriate for class due to fear or aggression issues. The information the profile gathers is pretty basic: the dog’s age and breed, response to new people or dogs, past history of bites (if any), and the owner’s goals for class.

The information gathered with this profile is very telling, however. Students are first asked what they love about their dog. This field is often left blank, or perhaps one or two small details are filled in. The following question, which asks what the student most wants their dog to learn, is not so briefly answered. In fact, this field is usually full of negatives: don’t, shouldn’t, can’t. People want to break their dogs’ bad habits, and they want it done now.

It’s easy to slip into the trap of focusing on what we don’t want. But what if we tried something new? What if, instead, we started paying attention to the positive?

Psychologists tell us that mental imagery is powerful stuff. Positive thinking can influence your sports game, your marriage, and yes, even your dog. This is because the practice of positive imagery actually stimulates the neural pathways necessary for the behavior you’re focusing on. Dancers who imagine themselves performing a move perfectly over and over again will find that move easier next time they try it. Couples who are asked to focus on two or three traits that they like about one another each day have happier marriages. And owners who focus on what they want their dog to do have better dogs.

This is what clicker training is all about, and it’s a pretty wonderful way to live your life too.

This isn’t to say that we can’t define behaviors we want to change. I don’t want my dogs barking or peeing on the floor any more than the next person. But instead of getting angry when they do these things, I define what I want them to do instead, and start focusing on that. If I want my dog to pee outside, I watch her closely so that she can’t sneak off and urinate upstairs, and reward her every time she pees outside. If I want my do to be quiet when I’m talking on the phone, I reward quiet behavior every time I take a phone call.

Focusing on the positive is liberating. There’s no longer any need to become angry about imagined slights. There’s no need to become frustrated when things don’t go your way. Focus on what you want to happen, and figure out the path to get there. Whether you’re training your dog to come when you call, your roommates to take the garbage out when they fill it up, or your body to perform a perfect golf swing, it can be done by focusing on what’s going right.

So enough with breaking things. Our dogs, friends, family, and lives are not broken. They’re just in need of some guidance.

Which positive things are you going to focus on this week?

“I trained him myself”

“I don’t need a trainer. I trained my dog myself.”

When I tell people that I’m a dog trainer, I typically get one of two responses. I’m either pumped for advice about a dog I’ve never met whose behavior I haven’t observed, or am told how well-trained the person’s dog is.

Photo by Stephen Mitchell

It always makes me so happy to hear about well-trained dogs whose owners love them. Since I’m most frequently called when things are falling apart, hearing about these special relationships never fails to warm my heart. It’s so wonderful to hear about devoted owners taking time to work with their dogs and teach them how to be the wonderful pets we all desire.

I have to admit to being somewhat surprised at how many people train their dogs themselves, though. Here’s the thing: I’m a professional trainer, and I would never dream of training my dog by myself.

My dogs attend training classes. Not just one class, but several. This is because I know that doing so is the very best way to help them become wonderful companions. I can (and do!) teach my dogs all of the basic obedience they need at home. Sit, stay, come, and polite leash manners are simple enough to teach. However, there’s so much more for a pet dog to know that just can’t be taught at home, and that’s where classes are so very vital.

My dogs attend training classes for socialization. It’s important for dogs to be exposed to new people and dogs in a safe, positive manner, and training classes allow me to do this. In class, my dog learns to focus on me around unfamiliar people and dogs and how to greet these new friends politely. He’s exposed to people and puppies of different ages, genders, sizes, and types. He learns to associate new people with pleasant things (hot dogs! training class!) and to control himself in their presence. He also learns that just because he can see another dog, that doesn’t necessarily mean that he’s going to get to act like a maniac, but should instead check in with me.

My dogs attend training classes to learn how to focus around distractions. It’s hard to produce lots of novel distractions at home, because my dog’s used to that environment. If I only ever trained at home, my dog wouldn’t understand how to listen to me at the vet clinic, the pet store, or the neighborhood park. A sit-stay in my living room is very different from a sit-stay in training class with its new sights, smells, sounds, people, and dogs. I want a dog who will respond to me regardless of what else is going on, which means that I need to teach my dog how to do this.

My also dogs attend training classes so that they’ll listen even when they’re excited. When the pizza delivery guy comes to the door, company visits for a barbecue, or fire trucks and paramedics rush to my elderly neighbor’s house, I still need my dog to respond to me. If he’s only ever been trained in the quiet of my home, he’s not going to have the impulse control and focus necessary to deal with excitement appropriately.

Finally, and most importantly, my dogs attend training classes so that I can learn too. Even though I work full-time as a professional dog trainer, that doesn’t mean I should stop learning. In fact, the more I learn, the more I realize I still need to learn. Every dog I train has something to teach me, and every class I attend likewise expands my knowledge base. Furthermore, the value of an extra set of eyes is indispensable. It’s easy for my relationship with my dog to cloud my judgement and make it harder to see what’s going on clearly, both good and bad. The class instructor can also give me valuable feedback on my own mechanical skills. Are my timing, expectations, or reward frequency hindering my dog’s progress?

Regardless of your skill level, training should not be limited to your home. In addition to all of the practical reasons to take your dog to a training class, a well-run training class will also be enjoyable for both you and your dog. Many a friendship (human and canine!) has begun in training class, and it’s quite common for my students to decide which classes to enroll in next based on which classes their classmates plan to attend next (especially in Reactive Dog classes, which really tend to form tight relationships).

Which classes have you most enjoyed taking with your own dog? What did you find most helpful about the training class? Please let us know in the comments!

Keep Calm and Lie Down

“Lie down” is often the very first behavior I teach a new foster dog, as I find that it’s one of the simplest behaviors to capture and one of the most useful household manners for a dog to know. I’m always amazed at how much trouble people go to in order to teach their dog this simple behavior. There are as many methods for teaching “lie down” as there are trainers to teach it.

Envy participated in our B.E.S.T. training program for shelter dogs. She quickly learned that lying down earned her treats and massages!

If you’re working harder than your dog is to teach him something new, you’re doing something wrong. I prefer lazy training, which is why I capture downs. Here’s the thing: every dog has to lie down eventually. It may take a long time if a dog is anxious or excited in a new environment, but they do eventually need to rest or sleep. I just wait for the dog to lie down on his own, then reward him for doing so.

Whether you use a clicker to mark the dog’s behavior or not is a personal choice. I prefer to use the clicker, as this allows me to more accurately pinpoint the moment that the dog earned a reward, and thus speeds up the training process. Unless a dog is likely to be sound-sensitive, I usually don’t “load” the clicker before I start training, but rather let the dog make the association between his behavior, the click, and the treat by himself. Dogs are smart, and they figure out that the funny noise predicts good stuff quite quickly in the course of training. And like I already mentioned, I’m a pretty lazy trainer, and loading the clicker would just add an extra, unnecessary step to the process.

Dogs do what works. Rewarding the dog usually causes him to get up in the hope of more treats. That’s fine. I just ignore him, and when he lies down again I once again reward. Over time, he learns that lying down causes me to produce cookies.

At some point in the training process, usually after the first 10-20 rewards, there’s a lightbulb moment. This moment is one that most trainers live for, and it never fails to give me goosebumps. Suddenly, the dog realizes that his behavior is controlling my behavior. Lying down turns me into a human Pez dispenser, making delicious treats rain down like manna from heaven.

This moment of realization is incredibly powerful, especially for dogs who have never before had a relationship based on communication with a person. Dogs dig this, and this is a great way to turn any dog into a training junkie. In most cases, I can tell that the dog’s got it when he starts testing the behavior. He’ll walk over to me and stand staring at me, waiting until I turn towards him. As soon as I look at him, he’ll lie down, as if asking, “Is this it?”

Once the dog’s figured out the game, I can quickly put his lying down behavior on cue so that he’ll do it when I ask. Of course, just because a dog will lie down on cue in my office doesn’t mean he’ll be able to do so in the kitchen, the backyard, or the pet store. We’ll need to practice the behavior in each of these locations separately, but once we’ve got the behavior on cue we’re well on our way to having a solid down in any location.

So, how long does this process take? Even the most excitable adolescent foster dog usually starts offering downs within an hour or two of arriving at my house. I usually have these dogs crated or tethered next to me while I work on my computer, which means that the entire time they’re learning to lie down I’m also able to work on other important tasks. Within a couple days, most dogs have learned that lying down quietly in the house is the best way to earn attention and affection. This makes them much better companions than dogs who learn that barking, stealing objects, or running around is the best way to engage their humans.

What if your dog has already learned that obnoxious behavior earns your attention? No problem! Simply start marking and rewarding him every time he’s lying down quietly, and you may be amazed at how quickly his behavior improves.

This process works equally well to teach other behaviors that dogs offer naturally, such as sit, bow, and stand. It’s easy, elegant, and (best of all!) perfect for lazy trainers! Have you ever taught any behaviors by capturing them? Give it a try, and let us know how it goes!

Teaching “go to your bed”

This is baby Trout’s first training session and first time seeing the mat.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jJ63YMl1Faw

Step 1: Hold your dog’s bed and wait for your dog to show interest in it. As soon as she does, set it on the ground. Click the second she glances towards it and toss the treat on the bed.

Step 2: Click and treat rapidly, tossing treats on the bed. After multiple clicks and treats, give the dog her release cue (I use the word “break” here) and pick the bed up.

Step 3: Wait quietly for the dog to show interest in her bed. As soon as she does, put the bed back down and begin clicking and treating rapidly for interactions again. Repeat this step several times.

Step 4: Once the dog is reliably going towards her bed, toss a treat off the bed to get her to move off of it rather than picking the bed up. Wait quietly for her to move back to her bed, then begin clicking and treating rapidly again.

Step 5: Vary your position in relation to the bed each time you toss a treat to move the dog off of her bed.

Step 6: Once the dog is reliably going to her bed, wait for her to offer a sit or down before you start clicking and treating.

That’s it for our first lesson! At this point, we want the dog to view her bed as a Magic Food Place where she can go to make good stuff happen. Later on, we’ll teach her to go to her bed on cue and to lie down and stay there until she’s released.

By introducing the bed in this manner, the dog becomes conditioned to view her bed as a wonderful place. This will make “go to your bed” a much stronger and more reliable behavior later on, because the very act of going to her bed will make her feel happy.