“My Dog LOVES Other Dogs”

“My dog just LOVES other dogs!”

If only I had a dollar for every time I’ve heard this phrase! Often uttered as a lunging, whining, adolescent dog drags her owner towards my dog, or worse yet as an off-leash dog makes a bee-line towards us, it usually spells trouble. Here’s the thing: my dogs do not want to meet rude, over-the-top dogs, and there’s nothing wrong with that. Furthermore, I consider my dogs to be more well-socialized than these canine Tarzans, even though they’re quite likely to snark at the “friendly” dog who jumps on their heads.

Photo by Karen Rodgers

Our society seems to have lost sight of what appropriate dog-dog interactions look like. The idea that every dog should want to play with every other dog they meet is ludicrous. Dogs who don’t fit into this narrow view of dog sociability are viewed as disturbed, aggressive, or in need of “rehabilitation.” A mature dog who snarls and barks at an adolescent puppy who plows into her is corrected by her owner and told to “play nice,” when really all she wants is to be left alone.

No other species is held to these standards, not even our own. Imagine if you were walking down the street and a strange man started running towards you. As he raced towards you he started shouting, “Hey! Hey! Hey! Hey you! Hey!” at the top of his lungs. Now imagine that when he reached you, he grabbed you up in a huge bear hug and spun you around, lifting your feet off the ground, while shouting “Hi! Hey, hi! Hello!” as loudly as he could. How would you react? Would you feel justified in responding defensively? Would you feel better about the interaction if his wife ran up behind him and told you, “He just LOVES new people!”?

This creepy interaction is no different from what many dogs are forced to tolerate every day. Look at it from your dog’s perspective. She’s walking along, enjoying the sights and smells of her neighborhood, when another dog appears in the distance. The dog is straining at the end of his leash, and as soon as he sees your dog he starts yipping and whining.The second he gets close enough, he starts jumping all over your dog while still whining. His owner proudly tells you how much he LOVES other dogs, and when your dog snarls at him, the other dog’s owner pulls him away with a hurt, “He just wanted to say hi.”

Over-excitement like this is not a hallmark of a well-socialized dog. We understand that we must teach human children to behave calmly and politely around others, but sometimes forget that the same basic principles apply to raising our dogs. Social behavior includes the ability to just hang out calmly with members of one’s own species.

We’ll talk later this week about what to do if you have a “canine Tarzan” who doesn’t understand how to greet other dogs politely. In the meantime, let’s drop the idea that every dog should love every other dog they meet, and stop holding them to such impossible standards. I expect my dogs to tolerate other dogs who aren’t getting in their faces, just as I tolerate the close proximity of strangers in an elevator. But if they don’t want to make friends with every dog they meet, that’s okay. In fact, it’s downright normal.

Drowning

Okay, let’s pretend for a minute that your dog didn’t know how to swim. Let’s pretend that he fell into a pool and started to drown. You’d save him, of course. You love him very much and don’t want to lose him.

However, being the responsible dog owner that you are, you’re probably not going to stop there. You’re going to keep him away from deep water or dress him in a doggy life jacket until you’ve taught him how to swim. You don’t want to risk his life again.

Photo by Veronica Sheppard

Here’s the problem: thousands of dogs are drowning every day, and their owners are doing nothing to save them.

I’m speaking metaphorically, of course. If your dog has a behavior problem, he’s drowning. Every time he paces and pants or hides behind the toilet during a thunderstorm, he’s slipping under the water. Every time he lunges and barks at another dog, he’s clawing desperately to keep his head above the surface. Every time he bangs his head on the floor or wall as he tries to catch a beam of light, he’s going under. You need to save him, or he’s going to drown.

Saving dogs from drowning is my profession, and it’s also my passion. Anxiety is horrible, and not seeking help for a dog who experiences anxiety is every bit as cruel as not treating a dog with a broken leg. Emotional anguish is just as painful as physical injuries in many cases, and drowning dogs need our help. They need our compassion and they need our empathy.

So, how can you save your dog from drowning? Just as you’d keep a dog who doesn’t know how to swim away from water, it’s imperative that you protect your dog from the metaphorical waters of his behavioral problem. That could mean walking him at odd hours (many of my clients walk their dogs after 11pm or before 5am to avoid meeting other dogs), covering the windows so he doesn’t spend his days barking at people walking past, or taking a break from agility competitions to work on his confidence or self control. It could mean talking to your vet about anxiety medication for thunderstorms or discontinuing playing with the laser light to discourage compulsive light chasing. It always means protecting your dog from himself, just as you would if he were going to fall into the pool.

Saving your dog may be as simple as avoiding water, but sometimes that’s just not realistic. If the waters of your dog’s behavioral issue are likely to wash over him on a regular basis, then you will also need to teach him to swim. Just as a swimming instructor or lifeguard can teach you how to swim, a professional trainer can teach your dog to cope with problems that may have previously flooded over him.

Regardless of his specific issues, drowning is a very real risk for many dogs. Young dogs are more likely to lose their lives from behavioral concerns than any other reason. Storm phobic dogs can have heart attacks in the midst of their panic, compulsive light- and tail-chasers may become so obsessive that they injure themselves, and reactive dogs can become so highly aroused that they bite. Dead is dead, whether your dog drowned in your pool or was euthanized with a syringe full of neon pink liquid.

The message here is clear: just as you wouldn’t wait if your dog was slipping under the water, please don’t wait if he’s suffering from anxiety, aggression, fear, or overarousal. Each mouthful of water he accidentally swallows is just doing more damage, and if you wait to pull him out it may be too late. Help him learn to be a strong swimmer so that he can thrive in the deep waters of life.

[This post is dedicated to Red, who couldn't be pulled from the dark waters of his mind no matter how strongly his adopters paddled. He's on dry ground now, and at peace. You were a good boy, Red Dog, and are sorely missed.]

Dog-Dog Socialization: Beyond the Dog Park

I don’t ever take my dogs to the dog park. The idea of the dog park is a great one: a safe place where dogs can play together and run free. However, in reality, I find that dog parks cause more issues than they solve, so I turn instead to other options for my own dogs.

Photo by Sangudo

There are several major problems with dog parks. The largest issue I personally have with public dog parks is the lack of oversight available for who attends them. I do not know the physical or behavioral health status of any of the dogs who attend, and the risk of exposing my dog to a sick or aggressive dog is much higher than with any other means of socialization. Unvaccinated dogs or those who are carrying parasites or viruses (such as kennel cough) are all possibilities. Since my dogs are healthy and are provided with appropriate immunizations and parasite control, this alone wouldn’t be a deal-breaker. However, behaviorally unhealthy dogs are a much bigger risk.

The largest problem with dog parks is that owners are often oblivious to or unconcerned about the behavior of their dogs. Many owners spend time at the dog park chatting with each other or on their phones, not even watching their dog. Dog parks are not appropriate places to bring dogs for remedial socialization, yet many people attempt to do just that. Many well-meaning people also bring their new or unsocialized dogs to the dog park with no idea of the dog’s comfort level around other dogs, a doggy version of “trial by fire.” Working as a dog behavior consultant, I receive calls and emails on a regular basis from people whose dog has either injured or been injured by another dog at the dog park. These calls range from a dog who has developed fear issues after being playfully jumped by a much larger dog at the dog park to a dog who literally ripped the ear off another dog when the two got into a scuffle over a ball.

There’s a saying among trainers: “if you go to the dog park long enough, something bad will happen.” While there are certainly lots of friendly, well-socialized, and healthy dogs who attend the dog park, it’s impossible to totally protect your dog from bad experiences in such an uncontrolled environment. This may not be a big deal for well-socialized, balanced, stable dogs, who will just shake off the bad experience and continue on. Young (under two years old), fearful, or easily upset dogs may not be so blase about the experience, however. One traumatic experience can set a dog up for a lifetime of fear or reactivity, something we trainers see all too heartbreakingly often.

As if this weren’t enough, I also avoid the dog park because of what my dog is likely to learn there. The average dog park attendee is an adolescent, setting the stage for a canine version of The Lord of the Flies since there are few adults around to keep order. Rude, pushy, and over-aroused behavior is often the norm. Practicing such behaviors teaches the dog that this is how he should interact with others of his species, and now we have a canine Tarzan or bully in the making.

Recall issues (where the dog refuses to come when called, or worse yet, plays “keep away” from his owner) are common at dog parks, and are a common reason why owners call me for training help. Dogs quickly learn that coming to their owners ends the fun, and start to avoid being caught. One client recently called me after she had to spend nearly four hours trying to catch her dog! She was finally able to snare the wayward pooch after her dog darted into the smaller fenced-in entrance area to greet a new dog.

So, how do I socialize my dogs? There are many great ways for your dog to enjoy the company of his own kind that are much safer and more enjoyable for all involved.

My dogs enjoy regular playdates with doggy friends. Playdates are based on my dogs’ age and play preferences, with my older dogs enjoying side-by-side walks (both on and off-leash) with their buddies and the new puppy enjoying regular off-leash chase and wrestling games with her friends. Ask around to find play partners for your dog: friends, family, coworkers, and neighbors are all great networks to tap. If one of you has a fenced-in yard, meet there for some off-leash play. Fenced-in tennis courts, baseball fields, and other such areas are also often available at local parks. One creative client of mine rented a neighbor’s fenced-in yard when she couldn’t find any other alternatives! A well-run doggy daycare can also provide your dog with regular access to other playmates, and you can feel comfortable knowing that the other dogs who attend daycare are also vaccinated and friendly.

Finally, my dogs receive regular socialization through training classes and dog sports. While the dogs may not directly interact with one another in these venues, they are still a vital piece of the socialization puzzle. Learning to focus on you and remain calm in the presence of other dogs is an important life skill. Human children are given time to play with one another and run around during recess, but also learn to sit still and focus in the classroom at school. Similarly, I don’t want my dog getting overly excited every time she sees another dog because she thinks she’s going to get to play. A dog who squeals and bucks at the end of the leash every time he sees another dog is not a well-socialized dog no matter how friendly he is, because he’s never learned how to control himself around his own species. Imagine if a human teenager or adult acted like that! Social behavior also includes the ability to just hang out calmly with members of one’s own species.

Some dog parks are better than others, and I may be more likely to attend a dog park with lots of space and trails than our local parks where dogs and people congregate around picnic tables. However, I honestly believe that there are better alternatives to the dog park. Providing socialization opportunities for my dogs is important, but that includes the responsibility to make sure that those opportunities are always safe and positive.

So, how do you socialize your dog(s)? Do you use dog parks, and if so, what do you do to ensure your dog’s safety? How are your local dog parks laid out? What socialization opportunities does your dog enjoy the most? Please share your stories and opinions in the comments below!

Littermate Syndrome

Getting two dogs at the same time seems like a great idea. Dogs are social animals, and a dog who will be alone all day can easily turn to destructive behavior or become anxious. Two puppies can entertain each other and keep each other company. So, what’s the problem with bringing home two puppies at once?

Professional trainers like myself recommend against getting bringing home two puppies. While this sounds like a good plan in theory, in practice it often causes quite a bit of heartache and trouble.

In addition to the problems one might expect with bringing home siblings such as double food and vet costs and double the potty training work, we need to focus on how the puppies will develop. Puppies’ brains continue developing until they hit sexual maturity (and even a bit beyond that), and there’s some convincing research out there that bringing two puppies home at the same time prevents one of the puppies from reaching his or her full potential.

Luckily for us, this topic has been researched extensively by someone who knows all about creating behaviorally sound puppies: guide dog organizations. One of the biggest problems that guide dog organizations run into is that puppy raisers are hard to come by. Puppy raisers are families who agree to raise future guide dog puppies, socializing them and teaching them basic obedience. This isn’t an easy job, and the emotional impact of giving up their puppies after a year of bonding and hard work means that many families are reluctant to repeat the experience.

In order to maximize the use of their volunteer puppy raisers, one guide dog organization decided to try an experiment. Willing homes were given not one, but two puppies to raise, thereby doubling the number of puppies the guide dog organization could work with. Puppies born to these organizations are tested before being placed and are tracked throughout their growth and development. What the organization found was startling. Placing two puppies in the same household always caused one puppy to become temperamentally unsuitable for work, even when both puppies started off as perfect candidates.

When two puppies are placed together, they learn to rely on each other. One of the puppies always becomes shy, even when both puppies started off as bold and outgoing. This is a huge problem, since it means that the shy puppy never reaches his or her potential. In fact, this was such a major issue that the guide dog experiment was quickly halted, and to this day guide dog organizations only place one puppy at a time in puppy raisers’ homes, even when the homes are highly experienced.

In addition to one puppy becoming shy, there are other behavioral implications for two puppies who are adopted at the same time. Oftentimes even the “bold” puppy turns out to be quite nervous and uncertain when separated from his or her littermate. Furthermore, the puppies frequently become incredibly co-dependent, exhibiting heartbreaking anxiety when separated from one another. They often fail to bond to their human family as strongly as they otherwise would, or sometimes at all. At social maturity, these puppies may begin fighting with one another, sometimes quite severely.

Even puppies who are not related can exhibit littermate syndrome when placed together. Professional trainers recommend against getting two puppies within six months of one another, because the risks are just too high. This doesn’t even take into consideration the other practical considerations, such as the increased costs of vet care, food, supplies, and training; the extra work of training and caring for two dogs; or the time requirements of two active puppies.

Can littermate syndrome be prevented? Theoretically, yes, however it’s so difficult as to be nearly impossible in practice. Remember, even experienced guide dog puppy raisers aren’t expected to be able to prevent this issue from developing. At a bare minimum, the two puppies would need to be crated and cared for separately, including separate walks, training classes, and playtime with their owners. The puppies need to have more one-on-one time with their new owners than they have with each other, effectively doubling the work and negating any of the possible benefits (i.e. companionship) that they were adopted together for in the first place.

The bottom line is that puppies do best when brought home separately. If you want multiple dogs, consider purchasing or adopting adult dogs who are already done developing instead.

Too Much of a Good Thing: Overexcitement in Exercise

Physical exercise is necessary and healthy for all dogs. However, there are a few common problems we see in client’s dogs who are not exercised properly. Today we’ll discuss one of the biggest problems, overarousal due to exercise, and the myth that you should exercise “crazy” dogs more.

Layla adores lure coursing, and it's great exercise for her, but it also makes her overly aroused.

Arousal refers to a dog’s level of excitement and emotional control. A highly aroused dog will be very excited, with a fast heartrate and respiration and poor impulse control. He may have dilated pupils or chatter his teeth. He may pant, jump around or on you, or vocalize incessantly. He may become grabby or mouthy. Alternatively, he may become “locked on” to an activity, freezing in place and staring intently at the object of his obsession, spinning in circles, or pacing.

Highly aroused dogs are stressed. Remember that stress is not necessarily bad. When we think of stress, we often think of negative stress, or distress. However, there’s also positive stress, known as eustress. Winning the lottery and having your home foreclosed on are both stressful activities, and your body actually responds to them the same way even though your emotional response to each is different. This point is important for us to understand as it relates to our dogs, because happily exciting events still create a physiological stress response in your dog’s body.

Why does this matter? Stress causes physical changes in the body. When you or your dog become stressed, your body releases certain stress hormones into the bloodstream. These stress hormones don’t just instantly dissipate. They hang around for awhile (the most commonly quoted length of time is 72 hours, but estimates range from mere hours to an entire week depending on who you ask).

Consider this, then. If you engage in activities that cause your dog to become aroused, and therefore stressed, every day, your dog will always have high levels of stress hormones in his bloodstream. High arousal becomes the new norm. Consider how you would feel if you won the lottery, rode a rollercoaster, or attended your favorite band’s rock concerts every single day. Our bodies aren’t built for prolonged periods of excitement, even when the excitement is positive.

What does this have to do with our dogs? I’m often called in to work with dogs who have trouble controlling themselves or calming down. These dogs are often reactive and hypervigilant. These dogs are also often victims of the wrong sort of exercise. Exercise that amps your dog up is okay in moderation, but allowing your dog to engage in it every day will likely do more harm than good. This is highly individual, but is most commonly seen with ball- or frisbee-obsessed dogs playing fetch every day or highly dog-social and excitable dogs visiting the dog park or daycare regularly.

If this sounds like your dog, there is hope! Cut down on overly arousing activities and replace them with other physical and mental exercise. Save these exciting activities for special times. My dogs both enjoy the flirt pole, but only play with it a few times a month due to how highly aroused they get while chasing it. Layla adores lure coursing above all other activities, but she takes 3 full days to recover after just a few runs after the lure because she becomes so over-the-top waiting for her turn (words cannot describe the bark-scream-screech sound she makes in line). Dobby loves to play fetch, but two days in a row with the chuck-it or frisbee creates a dog who’s not very pleasant to live with.

In future posts, we’ll discuss other common exercise pitfalls as well as some great ways to exercise your dog. Have you ever had to limit an activity your dog adored because it caused him to become too overstimulated? Please share your stories in the comments below!

Train the Dog, Not the Story

Working as a trainer and a dog rescuer, I’ve seen and heard about some awful things that have been done to dogs. Some of them, which I won’t mention here, will haunt me forever. We hear about horrible abuse often, and it never fails to grip our hearts. However, there’s an equally dark side to the story of dog abuse or neglect that is rarely mentioned.

Here’s the problem: once a dog becomes adopted, they begin the healing process. However, that process can only go as far as the new owner allows it to.

There’s no denying that horrible past experiences can influence a dog (or a person, for that matter) for the rest of his life. We understand from advances in neurological development that early experiences have a profound effect on the physical development of the brain. Impoverished environments during early development will result in a brain that does not develop normal neural connections and a body that does not process stress hormones normally (this is why socialization, including early puppy classes, is so important). Furthermore, new research hints that dogs and other animals can likely develop a form of PTSD with many of the exact same symptoms that humans suffering from the condition report.

All that said, improvement is almost always possible. A dog who spent his first 5 years in a tiny cage in a dark barn at some puppy mill may never be as much of a well-adjusted pet as he would have been if he’d had a better start. However, that’s not to say he can’t make great strides towards becoming more comfortable, or even have a very high quality of life in a new home. With advances in behavior modification, medication, and environmental manipulation, we can now treat anxiety or aggression issues that would have been a death sentence years ago.

There’s one thing that holds many of these dogs back, and it may surprise you.

It’s not their past.

It’s not their physical abnormalities.

It’s not even their owner’s level of competence at training.

It’s their story.

These two dogs came from a horrible situation. Instead of focusing on that, we can focus on them as individuals and let healing begin.

As far as we know, dogs don’t tell stories to themselves. However, people do. We do it all the time, and many adopters of dogs from bad situations do it to such an extent as to sabotage their dog’s progress.

Here’s the thing: your dog does not spend every minute of every day remembering the horrible thing that happened to him. He’s trying to move on. He is in a good place now. You need to move on too.

The best thing you can do for a rescued dog with a horrible past is to look to the future. Celebrate his progress. Celebrate where he is now. Celebrate the fact that he will never again have to endure hunger, cold, unsanitary conditions, or physical abuse.

Instead of seeing the story, see the dog. Provide rules and structure. Provide a set routine. Provide training.

There’s a lot of evidence that genetic potential has a large influence on a dog’s ability to make progress. You won’t know what your dog can achieve until you try. Listen to him, stay within his limits, and do not put him in situations where he struggles. Learn to read him, and work closely with a professional. Put his best interests first. Stop making excuses. If you find yourself apologizing for poor behavior using your dog’s story as an excuse, stop! Look to the dog you have in front of you right now. Read the page in front of you at this moment, not ancient history that happened weeks, months, or years ago.

Your dog’s story didn’t end when you rescued him. It’s still being written, and you’re one of the authors. Write a great ending to his tale.

Normal Dog Sociability Levels

Just like people, dogs have many different levels of tolerance for other dogs. Most puppies and adolescents (up to about 12-18 months for most breeds) will enjoy most of the other dogs they meet. It is normal for adult dogs to be less interested in meeting and playing with new dogs. Just as we no longer play with new friends on the swings at the park, adult dogs may no longer want to meet a new bunch of rowdy dogs at the dog park. Most adult dogs prefer to hang out with other dogs they already know and like.

Normal dog sociability levels change as a dog matures.

Below are the common levels of dog tolerance:
Dog Social: This is a dog who truly enjoys the company of other dogs. These dogs generally get along with all other dogs and can tolerate even very rude behavior. This group includes most puppies and a small percentage of socially mature dogs. While society seems to expect all dogs to be dog social their entire life, remember that this trait is on the lower end of the normal bell curve spectrum.

Dog Tolerant: These dogs are typically non-reactive on leash and may or may not “love” other dogs, but will be either friendly or indifferent to other dogs off-leash. They can typically tolerate some rude behavior from other dogs and can be described as having a long fuse. They show relaxed, appropriate, easy-going body language around others. The majority of adult dogs are either dog tolerant or dog selective.

Dog Selective: These dogs can succeed with certain other dogs, but may be more selective or picky. They may dislike certain ‘types’ of dogs or styles of dog play. These dogs may be easily offended by rude behavior. They typically like to dictate the rules during play and may require extra supervision from their owners when interacting with other dogs. Again, this is a common trait with adult dogs, and a dog who is dog selective is in no way abnormal. In fact, both of my dogs are dog selective.

Dog Aggressive: May have a very limited number of dog friends; sometimes, no dog friends. These dogs may have a very short fuse during play and may be reactive to other dogs on leash. They need heavy supervision and a strong leader who sets them up for success.

These traits are as normal as they are manageable. Setting your dog up for positive dog interactions can help her to become more tolerant of other dogs. By the same token, one frightening experience could set her back and make her more selective. Set your dog up for success by choosing appropriate play partners for her and introducing both dogs carefully.

In future posts, we’ll discuss the best ways to socialize your dog to other dogs, how to introduce two unfamiliar dogs, and common socialization pitfalls to avoid.

In the meantime, which of these characteristics best fits your dog? Has your dog become more or less social with other dogs over time, and how do you set her up for success with unfamiliar dogs? Please comment below!

In Praise of the Gentle Leader

The Gentle Leader is a special collar that fits on a dog’s head, much like a halter on a horse. It’s one of my favorite training tools, and also one of the most misunderstood among both the general public and professional trainers.

I use the Gentle Leader for every foster dog who comes through my doors, and it’s rare for a dog not to be as comfortable wearing it as a regular flat collar within 2 days. The secret? I put the Gentle Leader on before pleasant things (mealtime, walks, playtime, Kong time, etc), and take it off when the pleasant activity is finished. I also ignore any pawing. I find that many owners unintentionally reward this pawing because they pay attention to it. My dogs are trained to stick their noses through the nose loop of the Gentle Leader as soon as I hold it out, and they do this happily because they know it means Good Things Are Going to Happen.

So, why do I like the Gentle Leader? For me, this management tool makes the training process quicker and more effective. If I can control my dog’s head, I can control my dog’s focus. I’m able to redirect him if he becomes focused on a squirrel, another dog, or a biker outside. I’m able to teach him right from the start to walk on a loose leash, not to bark, and to sit politely for greetings. There’s a reason veterinary behaviorists and well-known professional trainers use Gentle Leaders with their own and clients’ dogs. They work. They’re humane. They’re effective. They save owners time and prevent dogs from engaging in bad behavior until the dog is trained.

The Gentle Leader is a must-have for working with aggressive or reactive dogs, but I also use it in basic training with all puppies and adolescents, or with untrained or strong adults. There are so many uses! A Gentle Leader and drag-line in my house allows me to teach house manners quickly and easily.

My goal is always to train every dog to a point where he doesn’t need any equipment (including a collar or leash). I find that the Gentle Leader is a great place to start the training process, but I don’t stop there. I work with the dog and teach him to walk nicely on leash, ignore distractions, and greet people politely. Once he knows these skills, we fade the Gentle Leader and the dog instead wears a flat buckle collar on his neck. I could certainly teach these skills on that flat collar to start with, but I find that dogs just learn faster with the Gentle Leader, and it’s easy enough to fade.

In the future, we’ll discuss some of the most common myths and misconceptions surrounding the Gentle Leader, other training tools I use, and some of the training games I play using the Gentle Leader. In the meantime, please comment below with your thoughts. Have you ever used a Gentle Leader (or any other brand of head collar), and what did you think? Did your dog adjust easily to it? What other training tools have you found to be helpful?

Dog-Dog Sociability

In our private behavior practice, we often get calls for adolescent dogs who no longer get along with other dogs as well as they did as puppies. This usually takes their owners by surprise, and is often very upsetting. “He was always great at the dog park, I don’t understand why he’s suddenly being so bad!” The answer is oftentimes, “he’s completely normal.”

Wait, shouldn’t all dogs want to play with one another? Well, not necessarily.

Our society believes that every dog should want to play with every other dog they meet, but frankly, this isn’t realistic or normal. Consider this: we would consider it normal behavior for a 4-year-old child to want to go the park and play in the sandbox with the other children. What would you think if a 40-year-old man was doing the same thing?

Adult dogs are adults, not babies, and as adults their interactions with other dogs will change. Puppies and adolescent dogs should be quite social. They enjoy playing and meeting new friends. This is normal for their stage of development. Many adolescent dogs really enjoy going to the dog park and doggy daycare. Adult dogs are different. While some adults may continue to enjoy these activities their entire life, others may be horrified at the prospect of wading into a pack of obnoxious adolescent pups and being asked to play.

So, what IS normal? First and foremost, dogs are individuals. A dog’s sociability with other dogs will change based on their age, breed, sexual status, genetic tendencies, early socialization, and recent experiences. Let’s go through what a normal dog’s sociability will look like as he matures, provided his owner sets him up for success by only introducing him to other well-socialized dogs and giving him frequent opportunities to interact with them off-leash.

As a puppy, the dog will probably be quite social with almost all other dogs and enjoy playing. Other dogs will put up with pretty rude behavior on the puppy’s part, because they’ll understand that he’s just a baby. Once he reaches adolescence at about 5-6 months, that will change. Other dogs will begin correcting him for rude behavior and he will start to learn about polite doggy society, including personal space and boundaries. He will still be quite playful, and may especially enjoy rowdy play with other adolescents. His social skills won’t be very “polished” yet.

As he continues to mature, he will become more polite around other dogs and may become less boisterously playful with dogs he doesn’t know well. He’ll likely have a group of doggy friends he really enjoys, but may not instantly play with every new dog he meets. He’s more likely to want to just “hang out” with his doggy friends, sniffing stuff together and meandering around as a group, without as much excited play. He may ignore unfamiliar dogs or greet them politely with a sniff.

In future posts, we’ll explore the normal classifications of dog-dog sociability, as well as good and bad ways to socialize your dog to others, the best way to introduce two unfamiliar dogs, and what to do if your dog doesn’t like other dogs.

In the meantime, what does your dog think of other dogs? Does he enjoy playing with unfamiliar dogs, or does it take him awhile to make new canine friends? Has his sociability level changed with maturity or due to positive or negative experiences? What do you do to set him up for success? Please comment below, I look forward to hearing about your experiences!