Lure Coursing

Thank you to Lois Stanfield for those wonderful images of Layla lure coursing!

Waiting to run. Dogs run naked (no collars allowed) for safety, so I taught Layla to tolerate being restrained by the scruff of her neck and a hand on her chest while she waits for the signal to go.

Right off the line, Layla’s already well over 30mph. This is why a solid warm-up routine is so important to avoid stress on the muscles and joints.

Ever wonder why Greyhounds and other sighthounds have a slightly roached (rounded) back? This photo shows why that structure can be helpful for dogs who need to sprint.

Most dogs sniff the lure (which is a white plastic bag) when they catch it. In true terrier fashion, Layla prefers to grab and shake it just to make sure it’s really “dead.”

Can you spot what’s wrong with my dog in these pictures (hint: it has to do with her physical appearance)? Answer on Monday!

[Mostly] Wordless Wednesday

Photo by Dean Searle

“He is your friend, your partner, your defender, your dog.  You are his life,           his love, his leader.  He will be yours, faithful and true, to the last beat of his heart.  You owe it to him to be worthy of such devotion”

– Unknown

Stuffing Kongs Quickly

Kongs and other puzzle toys are great enrichment tools. They provide oh-so-necessary mental exercise and are a simple way to improve your dog’s life. Here’s how I make Kong-prep easy for myself so that my dogs always have fresh frozen Kongs ready at a moment’s notice.

1. Gather all of the clean toys you’d like to stuff. You’ll need multiple puzzle toys for this. Ask your local pet business if you can receive a quantity discount for ordering a number of toys at once to support small business! If that’s not feasible in your area, there are also great deals available online. I prefer Kong toys, as they’ve historically been the most durable and easiest to clean/stuff (also pictured: Premier’s Linkables and Twist ‘n Treat toys).

2. Assemble your ingredients. I like to stuff both moist and dry food in my dogs’ Kongs. Place the moist ingredients in a ziploc baggie and cut the bottom corner off to make a homemade pastry bag in order to save on time. This time around I used a mixture of canned dog food, canned pumpkin, and baby food. Dry ingredients included kibble, a few dog treats that were left in the bottoms of packages, baby carrots which were old and a little bendy, and cheddar cheese that was one day past its expiration date and needed to be used up.

3. Place toys in a glass with the large hole facing up and begin filling them. The glass will hold the toy in place while you stuff it. Alternate wet and dry layers until the toy is full, finishing with a wet layer. Place the Kong toy in your freezer (small quantities can be placed in the freezer door, or larger quantities can be kept in a bin in the main compartment of the freezer).

4. Pull out a frozen Kong toy whenever you need one! Unexpected visitors, grooming time, and crate confinement are all times when my dogs may receive Kongs. Make sure to consider the amount of food your dog received from his Kong when you feed him so that he stays slim.

Do you have any tips to make Kong-stuffing go more quickly? Please share them here!

Drowning

Okay, let’s pretend for a minute that your dog didn’t know how to swim. Let’s pretend that he fell into a pool and started to drown. You’d save him, of course. You love him very much and don’t want to lose him.

However, being the responsible dog owner that you are, you’re probably not going to stop there. You’re going to keep him away from deep water or dress him in a doggy life jacket until you’ve taught him how to swim. You don’t want to risk his life again.

Photo by Veronica Sheppard

Here’s the problem: thousands of dogs are drowning every day, and their owners are doing nothing to save them.

I’m speaking metaphorically, of course. If your dog has a behavior problem, he’s drowning. Every time he paces and pants or hides behind the toilet during a thunderstorm, he’s slipping under the water. Every time he lunges and barks at another dog, he’s clawing desperately to keep his head above the surface. Every time he bangs his head on the floor or wall as he tries to catch a beam of light, he’s going under. You need to save him, or he’s going to drown.

Saving dogs from drowning is my profession, and it’s also my passion. Anxiety is horrible, and not seeking help for a dog who experiences anxiety is every bit as cruel as not treating a dog with a broken leg. Emotional anguish is just as painful as physical injuries in many cases, and drowning dogs need our help. They need our compassion and they need our empathy.

So, how can you save your dog from drowning? Just as you’d keep a dog who doesn’t know how to swim away from water, it’s imperative that you protect your dog from the metaphorical waters of his behavioral problem. That could mean walking him at odd hours (many of my clients walk their dogs after 11pm or before 5am to avoid meeting other dogs), covering the windows so he doesn’t spend his days barking at people walking past, or taking a break from agility competitions to work on his confidence or self control. It could mean talking to your vet about anxiety medication for thunderstorms or discontinuing playing with the laser light to discourage compulsive light chasing. It always means protecting your dog from himself, just as you would if he were going to fall into the pool.

Saving your dog may be as simple as avoiding water, but sometimes that’s just not realistic. If the waters of your dog’s behavioral issue are likely to wash over him on a regular basis, then you will also need to teach him to swim. Just as a swimming instructor or lifeguard can teach you how to swim, a professional trainer can teach your dog to cope with problems that may have previously flooded over him.

Regardless of his specific issues, drowning is a very real risk for many dogs. Young dogs are more likely to lose their lives from behavioral concerns than any other reason. Storm phobic dogs can have heart attacks in the midst of their panic, compulsive light- and tail-chasers may become so obsessive that they injure themselves, and reactive dogs can become so highly aroused that they bite. Dead is dead, whether your dog drowned in your pool or was euthanized with a syringe full of neon pink liquid.

The message here is clear: just as you wouldn’t wait if your dog was slipping under the water, please don’t wait if he’s suffering from anxiety, aggression, fear, or overarousal. Each mouthful of water he accidentally swallows is just doing more damage, and if you wait to pull him out it may be too late. Help him learn to be a strong swimmer so that he can thrive in the deep waters of life.

[This post is dedicated to Red, who couldn't be pulled from the dark waters of his mind no matter how strongly his adopters paddled. He's on dry ground now, and at peace. You were a good boy, Red Dog, and are sorely missed.]

[Mostly] Wordless Wednesday

Photo by Philippe Leroyer

“You enter into a certain amount of madness when you marry a person with pets.”            — Nora Ephron

“Can you train my kids too?”

Clicker training is pretty cool stuff. People leave their first class orientations excited to get home and start clicking their dog. So it’s really no wonder that I hear this question (or similar versions related to husbands or bosses) on such a regular basis.

My honest answer is always the same: absolutely! The principles of reward-based training work for dogs, cats, tigers, dolphins, and goldfish. They also work for Homo sapiens.

Photo by Ed Yourdon

We wrote last week that the laws of learning are just that, laws. Just like the law of gravity, they exist whether you believe in them or not. Our brains really aren’t all that different from the brains of dogs, cats, or even goldfish. Sure, we may have a more highly developed pre-frontal cortex. But really, the basic structure is the same.

Whether you’d like your children to keep their rooms clean, your husband to call if he’s going to be late, your wife to turn off the light, or the client with developmental disabilities you support to cooperate with her cares, the principles of reinforcement and shaping will get you there. You may not be clicking and giving out M&M’s (although I’ve known some parents and caregivers who’ve had success doing so), but you can still modify behavior for the better.

The first step, just as with our dogs, is to figure out what your end goal is. Define the behavior you want. It’s difficult to train a negative. Just as I have clients reframe their expectations from “I don’t want my dog to jump” to “I’d like my dog to greet people by sitting,” make sure you’re focusing on what you’d like the other person to do.

Next, figure out how you’re going to get where you want to go. If I want a child to keep his room clean, I might have to start by noticing when he puts one thing away without being asked. This last point is important, by the way. The more you prompt the behavior, the less likely it is to last. Wait for it to happen on its own, and make sure you’re looking for the smallest step towards your end goal. If you wait for your child to clean his entire room, you’re going to still be waiting 10 years later. Look for something that’s likely to actually happen within the next day or two, and reward it.

The rewards you use will vary, but it’s important to be sure that they’re actually rewards and not bribes. Showing your dog a piece of hot dog to get him to sit teaches him that he should sit in the presence of hot dogs, but not that he should sit at other times. Telling your child that you’ll take him out for ice cream when his room is clean will get him to clean his room this once, but that’s not going to make him any more likely to clean his room in the future unless more promises of ice cream are forthcoming. Instead, wait for the dog to sit or the child to pick up one thing on their own, then surprise them with the reward. Rewards should be pleasant surprises, not wheedling promises.

Some people become offended when we talk about changing human behavior, claiming that “psychological manipulation” of this sort is evil. I think this attitude misses the big picture, which is that being kind and noticing when other people make an effort makes life better for all involved.

By concentrating on what you like instead of what you dislike, we can all become better people. The people whose behavior we wish to change still have free will, and your genuine praise, warm hug, or an unexpected outing or gift on occasion aren’t going to influence them so much that they do something that they wouldn’t already consider. We’re just making the behavior we want more likely to happen: they ultimately still get to decide whether they wish to do it or not.

Which reminds me: if the methods you currently use to train your dog aren’t something you’d be comfortable using on a pre-verbal child, it may be time to reconsider your dog training program. Adult dogs aren’t human children, and we should acknowledge that they’re a completely different species with their own complex language and way of experiencing the world. However, we know that dogs have about the same cognitive abilities as pre-verbal children in laboratory tests, and using methods on our canine companions that would be considered abusive towards children or people with disabilities seems a poor way to show our love for them.

Ultimately, it comes down to a simple point. You can relate to the people around you by nagging and yelling in frustration or you can relate to them by praising and noticing their efforts. The choice is yours.

It’s the Law

“I tried positive reinforcement. It didn’t work for my dog.”

Dealing with serious behavior problems, I’m oftentimes called in after a desperate dog owner has already tried many different things to correct their dog’s problem behavior. Dealing with behavior problems is frustrating and emotionally tasking, and I can understand why a person would be reluctant to try something they already believe to be doomed to fail.

All that said, learning and behavior are subject to laws. The laws of learning are no different than the laws of physics: they exist whether you believe in them or not. Saying that positive reinforcement doesn’t work is like claiming that friction doesn’t work or that gravity doesn’t apply to you.

That’s not to say that one’s attempts at positive reinforcement may not fail. If your timing, criteria, or rate of reinforcement are problematic, your dog may not learn what you’re trying to teach him. If your dog doesn’t like whatever you’re trying to reward him with, you may not succeed. If another reward (such as the relief your dog feels when he lunges and a scary person backs away) overshadows the reward you’re using, you may actually wind up worse off than when you started.

That’s where I come in. Professional dog trainers know the laws of learning inside out. We understand how the training system works, and we can tweak your training program so that you succeed.

Just as you wouldn’t represent yourself in a complicated legal case, it’s foolish to attempt to modify behavior on your own in a complicated behavioral case. Hiring a lawyer can save you money or jail time. Hiring a professional trainer can save your dog’s life.

If you’re dealing with a complicated behavior problem (or even struggling with a more simple issue that you just can’t get on top of), remember that you don’t have to represent yourself. There are people out there who can save you time and heartache. There are people out there who understand the laws of learning, and who can help you understand them too. There are people out there who want to help. Put the laws of learning on your side. Let us help your dog. You’ll both be happier for it.